Many of us motorcyclists, for the most varied reasons, such as, for example, to save on the insurance premium, or more simply because they use their beloved vehicle only in the summer, have to spend the winter on their motorcycles away from the asphalt and roads, thus leaving it inactive for several months in the most disparate places. More here https://yourmotobro.com/.
Approximately I am referring to the period from November to March, four or five months in which our two-wheeler goes into deep hibernation. To keep a bike stationary all this time it is not enough just to put it on the stand where we usually find it and come back when the time comes, there are rules that it would be good to follow to avoid, above all, that it gets damaged over the years. So if the bike has a soul for you too, don’t just leave it as if you were to take it the next day but try to follow some small rules to find it well preserved when you go to take it back.
1. KEEP THE MOTORCYCLE SHELTER AND AWAY FROM MOISTURE.
As you can imagine, for such a long period there must be a whole series of precautions to follow starting from the place that we usually dedicate to her, whether it is a garage, rather than a box or a wooden shed, the important thing is that is as sheltered from the elements as possible. If you really have to keep it out, it would be better under a balcony or loggia and in any case always protected by a cloth. The cloth should be well-made, beautifully thick, which has laces to tie and wrap it but at the same time breathable. In fact, the humidity that could form under the cloth is highly harmful to the paint and to all the metal parts that could oxidize. This also applies to garages and various boxes, keep moisture away from the bike as much as possible. As an alternative to the cover, for some time now, rigid fabric boxes for motorcycles have been seen on the internet in which the motorbike is literally enclosed, an excellent solution to keep it out but protected.
2. BEWARE OF TIRES
The tires of modern motorcycles today more than ever do not particularly like inactivity. They are compounds that have a very high yield and time is truly their number one enemy because it hardens them by itself. furthermore, always resting on the same point, the rubber could deform. In any case, you can always save what can be saved. The best thing to do is literally lift the bike with two stands, the rear one and the front one, if you don’t have them, keep the tires at a pressure higher than that indicated by the manufacturer, you will reduce the support on the ground, always have them rest on the same point. If it rests on the wet ground such as concrete, buy a rubber mat to park on.
3. TOTAL CLEANING
Remember that the more dirt sticks, the harder it will be to remove it, and the more damage it will do, both smog and fearsome gnats and various insects with their acidity even get to corrosion. Thoroughly clean the bike, it must be a more thorough cleaning than usual, pamper it just. As long as you do not usually keep the bike particularly dirty, never use water if possible, rather a beautiful degreased and damp leather and finally on the painted parts and plastics a protective polishing product, a spray or a wax, there are the most various products on the market. Lubricate the parts most exposed to rust and the moving parts of the vehicle including fork stems and relative oil seals with WD40 or similar. Also, clean and grease the drive chain. In this way, you will preserve the bike as much as possible as well as have the pleasure of finding it clean and without having to immediately get to work when you take it back.
4. CHARGE HOLDER
We all know how boring batteries are to maintain, inactivity with the complicity of the cold (which is another enemy of theirs) could compromise it, especially the weakest ones. The mistake that is most often made is to turn on the bike now and then, while standing still, thus looking for a way to recharge the battery. This move is not much use, to recharge it at its best you would need a good lap, and moreover, running the engine from a standstill for a few minutes is not a good idea, an engine needs the right temperatures and the right speeds to perform at its best. Even disconnecting it is not the right solution because, even if with less dispersion, it still discharges. The right solution is the charge maintainer that constantly keeps the battery at the right voltage. On the net, they find themselves with a few tens of euros and for those who keep the bike stationary for months, it is the only solution.
5. FUEL LEVEL
This topic is a bit complex and observation must be made. Modern motorcycles generally have ABS tanks but in some cases, especially in slightly older motorcycles, the tanks are made of metal, the latter need attention, a low fuel level could mean that with the overtime, condensation forms in the tank which are dangerous for the formation of rust and deposits. There are two things. Either you fill it with the cap or empty it completely and let it dry. Personally, I prefer the second solution. First because gasoline ages, secondly, because you will avoid getting ready for any reason, you never know. Lowering the level. The ABS tanks obviously have no rust problems, you could also leave us some petrol, but even here I would prefer to empty it for the reasons I mentioned earlier. Beware of carbureted motorbikes. It would be good to empty the tanks of residual gasoline. With the injection, however, no problem.